Sunday, 26 August 2012

The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and a warning from the Elder Brothers

The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is a mountain range that contains the highest mountains of Colombia. Amongst others, it is unique in the world for having such high mountains (almost 6000 metres) so close to the coast. On some days, it is possible seeing the snowcovered peaks from a beach on the Caribean coast!




The Sierra Nevada is very special also with regard to culture. One of the indigenous people living there are the Kogi. Some Kogi can now been seen in villages and cities on the foot of the Sierra Nevada. However, a group of Kogi living in the higher parts of the mountain range have chosen to have no contact to the outside world.

The Kogi consider the Sierra Nevada to be the Heart of the Earth and themselves as the "Elder Brothers" responsible for it. In the last years, the Elder Brothers have noticed changes to the Heart of the Earth. Concerned, they broke their isolation and invited a film team from the BBC to transmit a message to us "Younger Brothers". The resulting documentary, "From the Heart of the World: The Elder Brothers' Warning" can be found on youtube.

Friday, 10 August 2012

Fe en la Causa

Colombia is such a diverse country and this entails that besides lots of things that I like here there are also some that I find harder to digest. One example for the latter are the recruitment and motivational videos for the the Colombian army and the war it wages. They are part of "Fe en la Causa", a media campaign by the Colombian armed forces.

Here's a few examples of such videos. The video that has been watched most is the one below. Even if you don't understand Spanish, you'll notice how intense the voice speaks to you telling you about heros and glorious troops. It also tells you about the need for "Fe en la Causa" (Faith in the Cause).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAXA1EHh2eE

The next video refers to some important dates in the history of Colombia, amongst others putting the Colombian Army in an uninterrupted tradition with a rebel force fighting the army of the established power (Simon Bolivar's troops in the struggle for Independence from Spain). When I watched it I thought that the rebel organisation FARC (who are fighting the Colombian Army) probably also claim to be the heirs of Simon Bolivar...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wA0pJZ4HRd8

For X-Mas with the Colombian armed forces click here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmtOVchbD0o

Sunday, 5 August 2012

Different worlds in southern Colombia

From Popayan, a nice historic city in southern Colombia, I travelled east crossing the Sierra los Coconucos. To both sides of the road, vegetation was as dense as a wall.

 

It was very misty and the cloud forest looked pretty misterious.


No surprise that this strange landscape is inhabited by strange animals, too.


Even some of the public transport vehicles here looked unusual.


On the eastern side of the mountains, I arrived in another beautiful region, famous for its coffee ...


... but even more well-known as Colombia's main archeological site: San Agustín. The flagship remains of the ancient and mysterious culture of this place are huge stone statues and tombs.


I found some of the common household objects like pots, grinders, etc. (some of which are 3000 years old), that are on display in the site's great little museum, very interesting, too.


A few hour's drive north of San Agustín's cool, rainy and green landscape, ...


... I entered the Desierto de Tatacoa.


This tiny desert is famous for observing the stars. When I was there, the sky was cloudy however and I couldn't see many stars but instead enjoyed the beautiful changing light of sky and desert landscape.



A few hours further north, I arrived in Bogota, yet another completely different world with traffic jams, homeless people sleeping next to the main roads and modern skyrise buildings that are illuminated in different colors at night.


Some more fotos from Peru and Ecuador

After some blog entries without pictures, here are a few fotos from Peru and Ecuador to give an impression of the incredibly diversity of landscapes in these countries.


Mountain road in Peru

Different types of maize put out to dry in the sun

Mountain lake

Lima

My first glimps of the Pacific

Back on mountain roads

A village in the hills

In southern Ecuador

 Chimborazo vulcano

 Quito

A village on the Ecuadorian coast

Saturday, 14 July 2012

Plastic Planet


At the moment, I am very interest in possible solutions to challenges facing life on Earth. However, there are some instances where I find it worthwile and necessary to take a step back and think about what these challenges/problems really are. Plastic is one of them.

Austrian filmmaker Werner Boote's great documentary Plastic Planet is available on DVD and you can also watch it online (in English and German) if you search for "plastic planet werner boote" on vimeo.com.

Friday, 29 June 2012

Puzzles

(English version below)

“Zu Anfang erscheint die Kunst des Puzzles als eine Schmalspurkunst, eine Kleinkunst, gänzlich in einer dürftigen Lehre der Gestalttheorie enthalten: die ins Auge gefaßte Sache – ob es sich um einen Akt der Wahrnehmung, einen ersten Versuch, ein physiologisches System oder in dem uns interessierenden Fall um ein Holzpuzzle handelt, ist keine Summe von Elementen, die man zuerst einmal aussondern und analysieren müßte, sondern eine Gesamtheit, das heißt eine Form, eine Struktur: das Element existiert nicht vor dem Ganzen, es ist weder gleichzeitiger noch älter, es sind nicht die Elemente, die das Ganze bestimmen, sondern das Ganze bestimmt die Elemente: die Kenntnis des Ganzen und seiner Gesetze, der Gesamtheit und ihrer Struktur könnte nicht aus der gesonderten Kenntnis der sie zusammensetzenden Teile abgeleitet werden: das heißt, daß man den Baustein eines Puzzles drei Tage lang ansehen und glauben kann, alles über seine Konfiguration und seine Farbe zu wissen, ohne auch nur im entferntesten weitergekommen zu sein: was zählt, ist allein die Möglichkeit, diesen Baustein mit anderen Bausteinen zu verbinden, und in dieser Hinsicht besteht eine gewisse Gemeinsamkeit zwischen der Kunst des Puzzles und der Kunst des Go; nur die zusammengefügten Teile erlangen die Eigenschaft der Lesbarkeit, bekommen einen Sinn: einzeln betrachtet hat der Baustein eines Puzzles keine Bedeutung; er ist nur eine unmögliche Frage, eine undurchsichtige Herausforderung; doch kaum ist es einem gelungen, ihn nach einigen Minuten der Versuche und der Irrtümer oder in einer ungewöhnlich inspirierten Halbminute mit einem seiner Nachbarn zu verbinden, verschwindet der Baustein, hört auf, als Baustein oder Einzelteil zu existieren: die gewaltige Schwierigkeit, die diesem Zusammenrücken vorausgegangen ist und die das Wort Puzzle – Rätsel – auf Englisch so treffend kennzeichnet, hat nicht nur keine Daseinsberichtigung mehr, sondern scheint nie eine gehabt zu haben, so sehr ist sie Selbstverständlichkeit geworden, die nun ebenfalls Ursache für Irrtum, Zögern, Verwirrung und Hoffen ist."

(Aus der Einleitung von Georges Perecs Das Leben. Gebrauchsanweisung)



"To begin with, the art of jigsaw puzzles seems of little substance, easily exhausted, wholly dealt with by a basic introduction to Gestalt: the perceived object — we may be dealing with a perceptual act, the acquisition of a skill, a physiological system, or, as in the present case, a wooden jigsaw puzzle — is not a sum of elements to be distinguished from each other and analysed discretely, but a pattern, that is to say a form, a structure: the element’s existence does not precede the existence of the whole, it comes neither before nor after it, for the parts do not determine the pattern, but the pattern determines the parts: knowledge of the pattern and of its laws, of the set and its structure, could not possibly be derived from discrete knowledge of the elements that compose it. That means that you can look at a piece of a puzzle for three whole days, you can believe that you know all there is to know about its colouring and shape, and be no further on than when you started. The only thing that counts is the ability to link this piece to other pieces, and in that sense the art of the jigsaw puzzle has something in common with the art of go. The pieces are readable, take on a sense, only when assembled; in isolation, a puzzle piece means nothing — just an impossible question, an opaque challenge. But as soon as you have succeeded, after minutes of trial and error, or after a prodigious half-second flash of inspiration, in fitting it into one of its neighbours, the piece disappears, ceases to exist as a piece. The intense difficulty preceding this link-up — which the English word puzzle indicates so well — not only loses its raison d’être, it seems never to have had any reason, so obvious does the solution appear. The two pieces so miraculously conjoined are henceforth one, which in its turn will be a source of error, hesitation, dismay, and expectation."

(From the Introduction to George Perec's Life: A User's Manual)

Camisea

In principle, it would be quite easy going down the river all the way to the Amazon via Iquitos, the world's largest city without road access, about 10 days downstream (as I had left some of my luggage in Cusco, that wasn't an option for me this time, however). The neighbouring villages of our destination, Kirigueti, had names like Nuevo Mundo (New World), Nueva Vida (New Life) and Nueva Luz (New Light) and I imagined us travelling deeper and deeper into a forgotten world of dense jungle with few and far-between villages inhabited by Indígenas.


The first surprise was that the villages weren't at all as far-between as I had expected.


Another surprise (even though I had heard about a gas project) were the huge and modern port facilities that we passed.




Wet and cold, we decided to get off at the next larger village rather than spending another two cold hours on the boat. This village happened to be Camisea.

It was the biggest surprise for me so far.


Rather than into an Indígena village with palmleaf-thatched huts hidden between trees, we walked on lawn through lines of wooden houses that had obviously been built very recently.





Beside the houses, infrastructure features included a big school, various administrative buildings, a hospital and a football ground. All of these seemed strangely unused.




To me, it looked like the Peruvian jungle version of a US-American suburb.


It took some time until we could make sense of it: as it happened, we had stumbled into the village on whose ground the gas field had been discovered. Some of the money (undoubtedly a pittance compared to the overall profits but still a lot of cash) had obviously been spent on turning Camisea into a model village. Complete with separate waste baskets for organic and inorganic waste and public toilets.


Contrary to what the guys on the boat had told us, there was no hostel in Camisea. After consulting the village chief, we were allowed to spend the night in one of the community buildings.

Walking through the illuminated village in the evening (to warm up before going to sleep), we discussed. Was this really as negative as it felt to us? Maybe was is what the people living in the region had chosen. But certainly not all of them. So who has the right to change peoples' lives in such a drastic way? And who, for that matter, has the right to deny them this change?

The only thing that seemed sure was that there's no going back!


Oil represents the sprits of a long dead world, is what the Shuar, a people from an oil-rich region of Amazonian Ecuador, say. Gas isn't much different.