Friday 29 June 2012

Puzzles

(English version below)

“Zu Anfang erscheint die Kunst des Puzzles als eine Schmalspurkunst, eine Kleinkunst, gänzlich in einer dürftigen Lehre der Gestalttheorie enthalten: die ins Auge gefaßte Sache – ob es sich um einen Akt der Wahrnehmung, einen ersten Versuch, ein physiologisches System oder in dem uns interessierenden Fall um ein Holzpuzzle handelt, ist keine Summe von Elementen, die man zuerst einmal aussondern und analysieren müßte, sondern eine Gesamtheit, das heißt eine Form, eine Struktur: das Element existiert nicht vor dem Ganzen, es ist weder gleichzeitiger noch älter, es sind nicht die Elemente, die das Ganze bestimmen, sondern das Ganze bestimmt die Elemente: die Kenntnis des Ganzen und seiner Gesetze, der Gesamtheit und ihrer Struktur könnte nicht aus der gesonderten Kenntnis der sie zusammensetzenden Teile abgeleitet werden: das heißt, daß man den Baustein eines Puzzles drei Tage lang ansehen und glauben kann, alles über seine Konfiguration und seine Farbe zu wissen, ohne auch nur im entferntesten weitergekommen zu sein: was zählt, ist allein die Möglichkeit, diesen Baustein mit anderen Bausteinen zu verbinden, und in dieser Hinsicht besteht eine gewisse Gemeinsamkeit zwischen der Kunst des Puzzles und der Kunst des Go; nur die zusammengefügten Teile erlangen die Eigenschaft der Lesbarkeit, bekommen einen Sinn: einzeln betrachtet hat der Baustein eines Puzzles keine Bedeutung; er ist nur eine unmögliche Frage, eine undurchsichtige Herausforderung; doch kaum ist es einem gelungen, ihn nach einigen Minuten der Versuche und der Irrtümer oder in einer ungewöhnlich inspirierten Halbminute mit einem seiner Nachbarn zu verbinden, verschwindet der Baustein, hört auf, als Baustein oder Einzelteil zu existieren: die gewaltige Schwierigkeit, die diesem Zusammenrücken vorausgegangen ist und die das Wort Puzzle – Rätsel – auf Englisch so treffend kennzeichnet, hat nicht nur keine Daseinsberichtigung mehr, sondern scheint nie eine gehabt zu haben, so sehr ist sie Selbstverständlichkeit geworden, die nun ebenfalls Ursache für Irrtum, Zögern, Verwirrung und Hoffen ist."

(Aus der Einleitung von Georges Perecs Das Leben. Gebrauchsanweisung)



"To begin with, the art of jigsaw puzzles seems of little substance, easily exhausted, wholly dealt with by a basic introduction to Gestalt: the perceived object — we may be dealing with a perceptual act, the acquisition of a skill, a physiological system, or, as in the present case, a wooden jigsaw puzzle — is not a sum of elements to be distinguished from each other and analysed discretely, but a pattern, that is to say a form, a structure: the element’s existence does not precede the existence of the whole, it comes neither before nor after it, for the parts do not determine the pattern, but the pattern determines the parts: knowledge of the pattern and of its laws, of the set and its structure, could not possibly be derived from discrete knowledge of the elements that compose it. That means that you can look at a piece of a puzzle for three whole days, you can believe that you know all there is to know about its colouring and shape, and be no further on than when you started. The only thing that counts is the ability to link this piece to other pieces, and in that sense the art of the jigsaw puzzle has something in common with the art of go. The pieces are readable, take on a sense, only when assembled; in isolation, a puzzle piece means nothing — just an impossible question, an opaque challenge. But as soon as you have succeeded, after minutes of trial and error, or after a prodigious half-second flash of inspiration, in fitting it into one of its neighbours, the piece disappears, ceases to exist as a piece. The intense difficulty preceding this link-up — which the English word puzzle indicates so well — not only loses its raison d’être, it seems never to have had any reason, so obvious does the solution appear. The two pieces so miraculously conjoined are henceforth one, which in its turn will be a source of error, hesitation, dismay, and expectation."

(From the Introduction to George Perec's Life: A User's Manual)

Camisea

In principle, it would be quite easy going down the river all the way to the Amazon via Iquitos, the world's largest city without road access, about 10 days downstream (as I had left some of my luggage in Cusco, that wasn't an option for me this time, however). The neighbouring villages of our destination, Kirigueti, had names like Nuevo Mundo (New World), Nueva Vida (New Life) and Nueva Luz (New Light) and I imagined us travelling deeper and deeper into a forgotten world of dense jungle with few and far-between villages inhabited by Indígenas.


The first surprise was that the villages weren't at all as far-between as I had expected.


Another surprise (even though I had heard about a gas project) were the huge and modern port facilities that we passed.




Wet and cold, we decided to get off at the next larger village rather than spending another two cold hours on the boat. This village happened to be Camisea.

It was the biggest surprise for me so far.


Rather than into an Indígena village with palmleaf-thatched huts hidden between trees, we walked on lawn through lines of wooden houses that had obviously been built very recently.





Beside the houses, infrastructure features included a big school, various administrative buildings, a hospital and a football ground. All of these seemed strangely unused.




To me, it looked like the Peruvian jungle version of a US-American suburb.


It took some time until we could make sense of it: as it happened, we had stumbled into the village on whose ground the gas field had been discovered. Some of the money (undoubtedly a pittance compared to the overall profits but still a lot of cash) had obviously been spent on turning Camisea into a model village. Complete with separate waste baskets for organic and inorganic waste and public toilets.


Contrary to what the guys on the boat had told us, there was no hostel in Camisea. After consulting the village chief, we were allowed to spend the night in one of the community buildings.

Walking through the illuminated village in the evening (to warm up before going to sleep), we discussed. Was this really as negative as it felt to us? Maybe was is what the people living in the region had chosen. But certainly not all of them. So who has the right to change peoples' lives in such a drastic way? And who, for that matter, has the right to deny them this change?

The only thing that seemed sure was that there's no going back!


Oil represents the sprits of a long dead world, is what the Shuar, a people from an oil-rich region of Amazonian Ecuador, say. Gas isn't much different.

Saturday 16 June 2012

El Pongo de Mainique

The pieces of information that I had gathered sounded almost too good to be true: a deep gorge where the Urubamba River breaks through the last mountain range before entering the Amazon Basin; very little tourism but nevertheless enough boats going down the river (thanks to a gas plant somewhere further downstream); wild; Michael Palin's favourite place in the world and on top of that one of the most biodiverse spots on the planet.

Together with Richard from Holland, whom I had met on the bus to Quillabamba, I was really looking forward to the boat trip down through the Pongo de Mainique. Besides us, about 10 Peruvian fellow travellers and quite a lot of luggage, the boat also carried a transport motorbike. Somehow strange considering that there were no roads where we were going.

About 20 minutes after setting off, a wave in one of the many rapids we passed through, hit the boat and we got drenched to the bones. Normally, this would have come as a welcome cooling shower. However, we had the dubious luck to experience one of the rare periods of surprisingly cold weather in the otherwise hot tropical climate of the region.



 As we approached the Pongo, we felt an increasing tension among our fellow passengers, the talks stopped and everybody looked ahead where steep mountain slopes appeared from the mist. When we entered into the Pongo, rain started pouring down. It was a very special and intense atmosphere!




I had expected a gorge with huge cliffs rising up to both sides. Instead, the rocks were only up to about 20 metres high, with waterfalls coming down to the left and to the right. Higher up, the walls were densely forested.



 


The fascinating ride lasted way too short for my taste and after a few kilometers, our small boat emerged from the Pongo. The river widened and calmed down, the passengers took up their conversations, somebody turned on a radio and we entered into the Amazon Basin.




(No, the guy next to Richard isn't dead, just sleeping...)

Friday 15 June 2012

Through the Sacred Valley and down towards the Amazon Basin

Close to Cusco, the Sacred Valley hosts a lot of historic sites from Inca and Pre-Inca times. Looking at infrastructure features like terrassed mountain slopes, irrigation systems, settlements high up in the mountains, etc., I found it amazing to think that the hight of the Incas' power only lasted for about 100 years.

Also, I often asked myself what made them settle in the cold highlands rather than in the lush tropical regions or at least in parts that are a bit lower and thus warmer and easier to live and work in (constructing and working on terrasses in almost 4000 m altitude is really hard!). A traveller I met said that maybe, the Inca wanted to be close to the stars.






From the Sacred Valley, I continued to travel on a scenic road that crosses a 4000 m pass before descending towards the tropical lowlands.


Originally, I had intended to get off the bus in the town of Santa Maria and then make my way up to Machu Picchu. However, I enjoyed travelling this road so much that I stayed on board and continued driving all the way down to the city of Quillabamba where the tarmac road ends.


Following the Urubamba River further down the next day, the temperature got warmer and the land greener and greener.





Although the road continues a few km further, the last major stop of busses and taxis collectivos is the small town of Ivochote. From here, onward travel is by boat.



Ivochote has particular significance as the place from which vital supplies are delivered to the settlements downstream.


From La Paz to Cusco

A few pictures of the Bolivian capital La Paz ...





... and the bus ride through the Andes ...




... along Lake Titicaca ...






... to Cusco in Peru.